10: We knew there would be some wait for our permits, so we decided to do a test run with our caravan. From Sandaphu and Phalut we were told that you could get spectacular views of Everest and Kanchenjunga. This would be a two or three day trek and would take us over 18000 feet. So off we went. When we reached Phalut the fog was so dense you could hardly see the ground much less a mountain view. The next morning was even gloomier and cold. We spent the day in the bungalow. These so called Dak Bungalows are built everywhere by the Government for the convenience of travelers. They at least give some shelter, but little else. In this bungalow in Phalut which was built because it commands one of the greatest views in the world the architect saw fit to have the windows on the side from which there is no view. We had to go out many times that day and walk around a small spur of the hill to look to see if the fog was going to let us see anything. Bill got so angry about this stupidity that he got out his paint box and painted the following over the fireplace:

Who built this house had little mind
For what might be its true intent
He put the windows all behind
And hurried off whence he was sent

This picture is of FBV returning once again with word that there was no view. But the next morning we were treated by a diamond clear morning and a view that was hard to believe.